Wednesday, July 8, 2009

A Dictionary of American Cuisines: Pacific NorthWest (In Progress)

















PACIFIC NORTHWEST: Alaska, Washington, Oregon, Northern California
Influences: General New England, Native American, Mediterranean (specifically Spanish and Italian), Asian (specifically Chinese and Japanese)
Native American Tribes: Alsea, Chayuse, Chinook, Clatskanie, Coos, Galice and Applegate, Kalapuya, Klamath and Madoc, Molala, Nez Perce, Paiute, Shasta, Siuslaw, Takelma, Tillamook, Tolowa, Tututni and Coquille, Umatilla, Umpqua, Walla Walla, Wasco and Wishram, Cayuse, Chehalis, Colville and Okanagan, Coeur D'Alene, Kalispel and Spokane Salish, Klallam, Kwalhioqua, Lummi and Samich, Makah, Nooksack, Quileute, Hoh, Chemakum, Quinault, Thompson Salish, Palouse, Yakima, Puyallup, Snohomish, Muckleshoot, Snoqualmie, Nisqually, Skagit, Suquamish, Squaxin, Swinomish, Stillaguamish, Sauk-Suiattle, Ahtna, Aleut, Aluutiq/Yupik, Eyak, Gwich'in, Haida, Han, Holikachuk, Ingalik, Inuit, Kolchan, Koyukon, Tanaina, Tanana, Tlingit, Tsimshian
Traditional Ingredients
fruit (huckleberries, apples (sierra beauty), pears (orcas), peaches, apricots, cherries, persimmons, grapes (mission, pinots, cabernets, zinfandels), Salal Berries, Oregon Grapes, figs (gillette (heirloom), Marseilles/Lattarulla/Italian Honey Fig (heirloom)), strawberries (marshall (heirloom))), seafood (abalone (endangered), geoduck clam (North America's largest clam; pronounced "gooey duck"), salmon, dungeness crab, alaska king crab, sword fish, scallops, mussels, clams (razor), oysters (olympia (the only true native oyster to the pacific northwest)), striped bass, white abalone, red abalone, leatherback sea turtle, eulachon smelt, white sturgeon)seasonings (salt, black pepper, parsley, dill, rosemary, sage, thyme, bay leaf), vegetables (potatoes (makah ozette (relatively new to people's tables but historic to the area)), carrots, onions, leeks, celery, chanterelle mushrooms, morels, matsutakes, boletus, hedgehog mushrooms, sprouts)
DishesBeveragesApple Cider, Coffee, Whiskey, Wine (mission, pinot, cabernet, or  zinfandel grapes), Breads/Pastries: Aplets (sugar dusted squares commonly known as Turkish delight; based on the apple juice extracted from the lower grades of the fruit, sugar, walnut meats, etc.), Cotlets (a variation of aplets where sun-dried apricots and apricot pulp are used.), Sourdough Bread, Breakfast: Arbogast Omelette (developed by San Francisco chef Ernest Arbogast of the Palace Hotel; a cream sauce is heated with oysters, salt, black pepper, and a touch of sherry, of which half is then added to whisked eggs and an omelette is made with the remaining sauce poured over it.), Bran Muffins, Buckwheat Pancakes, Clam Hash (An old story maintains that New Englanders who came to settle in the Northwest resorted to making their traditional hash with clams when they had no corned beef; crumbled bacon, sauteed onion bits mixed with clams, diced potatoes, and two beaten eggs baked), Hangtown Fry (originated in either the gold fields around Placerville, CA, or at a saloon called Parker's Bank Exchange in San Francisco), Condiments: Green Goddess Dressing (The Green Goddess (film) in the early 1920's inspired the creation at the Palace Hotel of an anchovy flavored, meadow colored mayonnaise to dress salad greens; contains chopped anchovy fillets, scallions, parsley, tarragon, homemade mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, and minced chives), Fig Jam, India Pickle (Oregon; 12 apples, 10 ripe tomatoes, 9 medium onions, 3 cups of vinegar.  When this comes to a boil add 3 cups sugar, 1/4 cup salt, 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon cloves, 1/2 teaspoon black pepper.  Cook till tender and seal; Used as a sandwich spread, a sauce for meat loaves or in the loaf itself.  Also good with baked beans.), Potted Salmon (butter or ooligan grease are creamed with hazelnut oil.  Flaked salmon is added and worked till smooth.  Finally, seasonings are stirred in such as salt, peper, lime juice, and crushed juniper berries), Salal Berries/Oregon Grape Jam/Preserves, EntreesBarbequed Pot Roast, Chicken Raphael Weill (invented by chef Raphael Weill of San Francisco; chicken braised in cream and wine and flavored with shallots), Chicken Salad, Chicken with Anchovies, Chicken Tetrazzini (San Francisco; a combination of chicken, cheese, and spaghetti; this dish was created for the Italian opera singer, Luisa Tetrazzini), Grilled Butterflied Lamb, Meats paired with Fruit (Cherry-Glazed Chicken, Pork Chops with Apricot), San Francisco Burrito, Pies/Cakes/PuddingsApple Pie, Baked Apples, Chocolate Angel Pie, Chocolate Beetroot Cake, Peach Upside Down Cake, Portland Popover Pudding (a descendant of Yorkshire pudding; individual balloons of crusty meat-flavored pastry; the batter is cooked in custard cups lubricated with drippings from the roasting beef (or sometimes pork); another modification was the use of garlic and, frequently, herbs.), Rhubarb Pie, Salal Berry/Oregon Grape Pie, SeafoodAbalone Steaks (sliced, pounded, fried in butter and olive oil, then seasoned with salt and pepper), Broiled Tuna Steaks, Crab Hash (potatoes, onions, leek, dungeness crab meat, lemon zest, dill, salt and pepper), Crab Louis (dungeness crab topped with chili-sauced mayonnaise), Deviled Crab, Eulachon Smelt (fried, smoked, grilled, preserved; endangered), Fried Clams (razor clams are often used), Grilled Sand Dabs, Grilled Tuna Salad, King Crab (anointed with hot lemon butter and broiled over charcoal), King Crab Salad (originated at the Palace Hotel; king crab, artichoke hearts, carrots, peas, and thousand island dressing), Oysters (raw, baked, barbequed, or fried), Oyster Loaf (buttery sauteed oysters confined in a hollowed out and toasted loaf of French bread), Petrale or Rex Sole with Lemon Sauce, Petrale Sole with California Champagne (invented by Jamie Davies, who helps run a vineyard in Napa Valley with her husband Jack; Dip fish pieces into milk and dredge with flour; season with salt and black pepper.  Melt butter in a pan and saute for about 3 minutes on each side.  Season 2 cups of cooked spinach with salt, black pepper, and nutmeg and spread on a hot platter.  When fish are evenly browned, arrange on top of the spinach and keep warm.  saute 8 fresh, sliced mushrooms in butter remaining from cooking the sole.  sprinkle with parsley, add 1/2 cup of champagne, and heat, but don't boil.  Pour over fish and spinach.), Salmon (poached and served with dill sauce, grilled on a cedar plank, or sauteed with apples and apple cider)Sauteed Abalone Steaks, Swordfish with Peach Salsa, Steamed Muss, Soups/StewsBeet- Top Soup, Cioppino (invented by a San Franciscan Genoan sailor named Giuseppe Buzzaro and can include any combination of seafood and perhaps tomatoes, green peppers, and several herbs; perhaps a distorted version of ciupin (a Ligurian mariner's fish soup)), Clam Broth, Chowder's (clam which sometimes the substitution of rice for potatoes, or the addition of tomatoes, carrots, cabbage, as well as potatoes, crackers, butter, and cream; salmon)Vegetable DishesWarm Goat Cheese and Spinach Salad
Tradional Eateries: Saloons, Bars, Coffee Houses
Quotes: 
The Old Settler:
No longer the slave of ambition,
I laugh at the world and its shams,
As I think of my pleasant condition,
Surrounded by acres of clams.
Angelo Pellegrini (an Italian immigrant in the early 20th century):
"During the first few months in America, I went to the forest every day and returned home laden with it's precious fruit.  There were nuts and berries in profusion.  With my father I hunted grouse, pheasant, quail, and rabbit.  Here and there were abandoned homesteads with plum, pear, and apple orchards.  The reality was more fantastic than the dream...It seemed possible to live on the prodigal yields of the surrounding hills...And while we were gradually becoming naturalized and eagerly looking forward to citizenship, we were also naturalizing our cuisine."
Misc. Facts:
1. Traditionally the first sign of Spring is the arrival of the eulachon smelt. - Renewing America's Food Traditions
2. Legend has it that a prospector who had just struck it rich came into a saloon and exclaimed, "Gimme your most expensive grub, I'm tired of eatin' beans!"  The saloon cook took his three most costly ingredients - Olympia oysters (then brought live in barrels of saltwater from San Fransisco Bay), eggs, and bacon - and fixed up the prospector an omelet that continues to be featured at many West Coast restaurants.  One of the longest-running Hangtown fry purveyors was the Blue Bell Cafe, formerly a watering hole for miners on Main Street in Placerville.  It is the official dish of both Placerville and surrounding El Dorado County. - Renewing America's Food Traditions
Notable Recipes:
Hangtown Fry:
In a glass mixing bowl, crack open one egg and beat it.  Add 16 Olympia oysters and lightly coat them in the egg batter, then add 1/4 cup of flour, 1/2 cup or bread or cracker crumbs, 1/4 teaspoon of salt, and an 1/8 teaspoon of black pepper, breading each oyster with a thick coating.  Next, place two large skillets over medium heat and fry 16 strips of bacon in the first skillet until each strip is almost crisp.  Remove the bacon, place on paper towels, and set aside, while draining the grease from the skillet to use again.  In the other skillet, pan-fry all the oysters in olive oil or butter for three minutes, or until they are golden brown, then remove and place them on a paper towel.  Again, ready the second skillet, adding a bit of bacon grease or butter to it.  In the glass bowl, mix 8 eggs, 1/4 cup of cream, and 1/2 cup of parmesan cheese.  Heat both skillets, then lay out the strips of bacon in the skillets as if they were railroad tracks, and place the oysters between them.  Pour the batter over the bacon and oysters, and cook as you would any omelets, folding them over and cutting each skillet's Hangtown fry into four sections.  Garnish with another 1/2 cup of parmesan cheese.  Enjoy with sourdough bread and strong coffee or whiskey.

Sources: my head, American Food: What We've Cooked, How We've Cooked It, and the Ways We've Eaten in America Through the Centuries, America the Beautiful Cookbook: Authentic Recipes from the United States of America, Renewing America's Food Traditions: Saving and Savoring the Continent's Most Endangered Foods, www.wikipedia.org, www.lifeintheusa.com, http://berksweb.com/pam/, www.foodtimeline.org, www.native-languages.org/states.htm, http://www.kurtsaxon.com/foods011.htm

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